Sete and La Grande Motte

For our first excursion we traveled to Séte in the morning and early afternoon, then finished the day off in La Grande Motte which is southeast of Montpellier. I was excited to see what Séte would be like; we were planning to do our study abroad there before it was moved to Montpellier. Séte sits right on the Mediterranean, with a large hill rising from the land beneath it. Like Aigues Mortes, Séte used to be known for its salt production until the 1950’s when wind and tides started to pull it back into the sea. I thought it was surprising to find out that this was being allowed to happen. Séte is adapting to this environmental change by keeping roads elevated so that they can still be used once there is no longer any land beneath it.

After briefly learning about the history of Séte, all of us ventured to the top of the hill situated in the center of the city. When we got here, it was great to be able to see all the different environmental conditions that were present. To the left was an expansive view of the Mediterranean, which plays an important role in Séte’s fishing industry. Turning to the right you could see all of the oyster farms set up in grids. It was clearly evident that the livelihood of inhabitants in this city greatly depends on the surrounding environment. Standing on top of this hill ultimately left an incredible impression on me even hours after leaving.

The next part of our excursion included taking a boat ride across the laguna. First we got to view the oyster farms from the hill, and now we could experience it from a closer vantage point. After crouching down on the boat while passing underneath several bridge canals, we finally reached the open water while being splashed by the salty waves. Venturing from a high elevation to a lower elevation, and across the water was in my opinion the best way to experience this landscape.

With a quick pit stop in Bouzigues for lunch, it was onward to La Grande Motte to finish up the afternoon. The next part of our excursion included taking a boat ride across the laguna. First we got to view the oyster farms from the hill, and now we could experience it from a closer vantage point. After crouching down on the boat while passing underneath several bridge canals, we finally reached the open water while being splashed by the salty waves. Venturing from a high elevation to a lower elevation, and across the water was in my opinion the best way to experience this landscape.

When first arriving here, it was very strange to view these buildings in comparison to the European architecture we had been able to witness already. La Grande Motte actually used to be a swamp with a diminutive population of 800 people or so. Instead of having its citizens travel to other countries and areas during the summer months, the French wanted people to experience their native country and environment instead. This is when a series of pyramid-like buildings were constructed to house tourists. During the summertime, it is said that the population rises to over 100,00 people in La Grande Motte. Although these buildings have a pyramid shape, none of them seem to fit in with each other, or the surrounding area.

This town is also situated on the Mediterranean, and the landscape seemed to play a different role in the daily lives of inhabitants. There is such a special relationship between the people of Séte, and it is visible how they thrive off the resources from the surrounding environment. That type of connection seemed to be lost or non-existent in La Grande Motte even though it is located on the edge of the sea.

Aigues Mortes

Located about 30 minutes southeast of Montpellier, Aigues Mortes is a small city enclosed by medieval walls. The area surrounding this city is well known in the salt production industry. This became evident on the bus ride approaching Aigues Mortes as mounds of salt could be seen in the background and the water color changed to a light pink. It was almost a surreal and dreamy landscape to experience, with an abundant flamingo population in the waters.

From a short distance the walls surrounding the city possess some scale, and then when you stand right before the entrance they become very powerful. I estimated the walls to be about 12 meters high on all four sides. All of the buildings and houses located on the interior didn’t surpass the height of 12 meters in order to protect residents when they were built. It is incredible how it only requires 5 minutes of walking from one side of the city to the other, where you can experience a church, main square, and sculptures. One in particular is aligned with the entrances, as a way to welcome those entering the city.

I was able to see the relationship between Aigues Mortes and the surrounding landscape after a painstaking hike up the tower, which also works as a museum. In the distance you can see massive piles of salt along the coast. On another side was the Chenal Maritime lined with dozens of boats. Taking in a panoramic view of all these elements at once really helps you understand the richness of this environment. Venturing further along the top of the walls I noticed several interesting things. The width of paths was just wide enough to allow two people walk next to each other. I noticed that the walls were very dense and thick, and realized that an extensive amount of planning was put into the construction. Lastly, on this level I got to experience how the old city related to what had expanded beyond the walls.